I just finished listening to an audiobook entitled "Think Like An Ecosystem -
An Introduction to Permaculture, Water Systems, Soil Science and
Landscape Design" by Amélie Des Plantes, narrated by Brian Pederson on Audible.
One problem and question that I tried to find and dig more in my journey as a Junior Agricultural Economist was about "what is the best and most sustainable food system for our current conditions in this modern life?", and Permaculture is one of the answers, both practically and philosophically. Permaculture is described
as "nothing new"; it is a return to nature's way of taking care of
itself. After humans disrupted natural balances, permaculture offers a
philosophy to repair the harm and restore equilibrium.
From this audiobook, I learned that the
success of any design always reverts to the twelve principles: Observe,
Catch Energy, Obtain Yield, Self-Regulate, Use Renewable Resources,
Produce No Waste, Design from Patterns, Integrate, Slow Solutions, Value
Diversity, Use Edges, and Respond to Change.
Combining the
principles with the ethics of Care for Earth, Care for People, Fair
Share, and Animal Care creates the foundation for a self-sustaining
garden that mimics nature. A reminder of the "stacking
functions" rule is given: if an element doesn't serve at least three
functions, it should be rethought. This efficiency is central to a
successful, low-maintenance design.
The mantra "feed the soil" is
reiterated. Without feeding the garden (with compost/mulch), the garden
cannot feed you. Chemical fertilizers are unnecessary when household
waste is utilized. Finding and closing loops—like using kitchen
scraps for soil or collecting rainwater—ensures no resource is wasted.
This is the practical application of the "Produce No Waste" principle in
the home. Permaculture is an alternative and solution for bad consumerism and wasteful habits in this modern era.
I would like to share to you the insights and key takeaways from this audiobook. Happy learning, and enjoy!
Introduction
Humanity is described in the text as incredibly wasteful, with consumerism effectively "eating the planet" as people buy items not out of necessity but desire for newer, bigger versions. The statistics are staggering: it is estimated that 30 to 60 percent of household water is used for outdoor irrigation, half of which is wasted in runoff, while 125 to 160 billion pounds of food are wasted annually in the US alone.
Despite the increasing complexity of global problems, the author cites Bill Mollison to emphasize that solutions remain "embarrassingly simple." The text suggests that we can achieve significant change by better utilizing existing resources. The author recounts her frustration with university peers who were wasteful, contrasting this with her farming background where making the most of everything was the norm.
The author’s professor highlighted that before currency systems (650–600 BC), people exchanged goods and grew food naturally without modern interventions. Permaculture seeks to recreate this self-sustaining environment by using what nature provides, just as countless tribes and cultures did for generations before the advent of industrial agriculture.
While both practices avoid chemicals, permaculture goes beyond organic gardening by involving specific design principles and taking greater responsibility for waste. It aims to mimic nature to create sustainable habitats for humans and animals rather than just growing food as a business or hobby, making it a lifestyle rather than just a gardening technique.
The author shares her own early frustration with permaculture, noting that complex chemical formulas and confusion between different farming practices can be daunting for beginners. She emphasizes the importance of peeling back information "leaf by leaf" to understand the passion correctly and avoid being discouraged by unnecessary complexity or academic jargon.
The book encourages embracing mistakes, as "what looked like failures" often teach the most about necessary improvements. The author promises to confess her own errors throughout the text to help readers avoid them, framing these experiences as vital lessons rather than setbacks in the journey toward sustainability.
After five years of practicing permaculture, the author's family experienced closed-loop systems and zoning benefits, leading to a healthier, happier, and more purposeful life. They felt their simple solutions were making a positive difference in the world, shifting their mindset from complaint to proactive action.
You do not need large amounts of land, fancy tools, or expensive equipment to practice permaculture. Many successful designs are implemented in small to average-sized gardens using enthusiasm and proper understanding as the primary tools rather than professional landscape design skills or heavy machinery.
The book aims to share knowledge and passion so others can enjoy the pleasures of permaculture without unnecessary jargon. It covers principles from observing environments to integrating animals and water systems, making the information accessible to everyone regardless of their starting point or previous agricultural knowledge.
The introduction sets the stage for a journey into sustainable living that combines a "history lesson with a spade full of philosophy." It urges readers to sit back and understand the core concepts before rolling up their sleeves, as this foundational understanding is crucial for appreciating the ethical and practical shifts required.
Chapter 1: Permaculture in a Nutshell
The term "permaculture" combines "permanent" and "agriculture," implying that permanent systems are sustainable. Coined by Bill Mollison in 1978, it is defined as the conscious design and maintenance of agriculturally productive systems that mimic the diversity and resilience of natural ecosystems.
The inspiration for permaculture dates back to Mollison observing marsupials in Tasmanian rainforests and realizing the interconnectedness of ecosystems. However, the practices reflect indigenous methods used for centuries to maximize plant growth for food and medicine, which modern science had largely moved away from in favor of industrial methods.
A core concept is the closed-loop system, which provides its own energy and turns waste into resources. For example, kitchen scraps feed animals, and animal manure fertilizes crops, creating a sustainable cycle where waste effectively ceases to exist because every output becomes an input for another part of the system.
Permaculture favors perennial crops because they are distinct from annuals, which require high nutrients and frequent tilling. Perennials have deep roots that access nutrients further down in the soil, require less water, and provide permanent growth that slows in winter and returns in spring, offering stability to the landscape.
Every element in a permaculture design should serve multiple functions to maximize efficiency, a concept known as "stacking functions." A chicken coop, for instance, can harvest rainwater for irrigation while housing chickens that control pests and fertilize the soil, ensuring that no single element has only one purpose.
Eco-Earthworks involves designing landscapes to capture every drop of rainwater. It may require changing the land's shape, such as creating canals or ditches, to collect runoff effectively before planning other garden elements like vegetable patches or herb gardens, ensuring water is managed passively.
Permies must sometimes step back and let nature do its job rather than interfering. For example, chickens can naturally control pests and prepare land for planting without human intervention, and "helping" nature can sometimes ruin natural processes that are already functioning efficiently.
Permaculture differs from organic gardening by focusing on variety and perennials rather than annual monocropping. It creates systems where every element benefits the next, such as planting elderberry for shade, feed, and medicine simultaneously, whereas organic gardening often remains a monoculture practice just without the chemicals.
Unlike organic farming which may use sprays, permaculture views pests as part of the ecosystem. Solutions involve restoring balance, such as introducing ducks to eat slugs, rather than using sprays that kill pests temporarily but fail to solve the underlying imbalance in the system.
Permaculture is also a social movement that influences city planning and community interactions. It encourages diversity in society, challenging outdated beliefs and fostering cross-cultural relationships to heal the world, viewing relationships in nature as a model for healthy human interaction.
Chapter 2: Principles of Permaculture
The first principle dictates that one should observe nature without preconceptions before acting. By watching interactions over four seasons, one can design a garden where each element flourishes naturally, ensuring that designs are based on reality rather than aesthetic desires or forced structures.
The principle of collecting and storing energy extends beyond solar panels to collecting water in tanks or storing food in root cellars. It emphasizes using renewable resources to benefit both current and future generations, and finding ways to reduce energy consumption, such as growing ivy to cool a house naturally.
There must be a balance between immediate and future rewards, encapsulated in the principle "Obtain a Yield." Obtaining a yield early encourages the continuation of the practice, but one must not drain the ecosystem's resources to do so; the yield is limited only by the designer's creativity.
Systems should be designed to reduce negative feedback (inopportune growth) and encourage positive feedback (growth). The goal is a self-regulating system that requires minimal corrective intervention, allowing nature to adjust the system through its own feedback loops rather than constant human management.
Permaculture favors biological solutions over non-renewable ones. For example, using an apple tree for fruit, shade, and eventual firewood creates passive benefits without destroying the resource base, unlike using non-renewable resources which is akin to withdrawing money without any income.
In nature, waste from one element becomes food for another, leading to the principle "Produce No Waste." Permaculture designs should use all abundance, such as using grazing animals to control grass growth instead of machinery, turning potential waste into a resource and minimizing pollution.
Designers should observe broad patterns in nature before focusing on details. This holistic perspective helps organize the design into functioning systems like zones and sectors rather than disjointed elements, preventing the planning of projects that look good but function poorly in the specific landscape.
Planting diverse elements together reduces pests and creates beneficial connections, following the rule to "Integrate Rather Than Segregate." The rule of thumb is that elements should be integrated to self-regulate, such as mixing wild herbs with grazing land to increase biodiversity and soil quality.
Small and slow solutions are more efficient and sustainable than fast, massive changes. "Big and fast" approaches often cause damage, whereas slow growth allows for better adaptation and reduced risk, avoiding the "bull in a china shop" scenario that often comes with large-scale interventions.
Polycultures are more resilient than monocultures, emphasizing the value of diversity and edges. Utilizing "edge zones"—where two environments meet—increases biodiversity and productivity, turning marginal land into valuable space by combining species that thrive in both individual zones and the unique edge environment.
Chapter 3: Designing Your Garden - The Whole System Approach
The author stresses that before planting, one must observe the land, noting details like bat activity that can control pests. Rushing the design phase often leads to mistakes, such as creating raised beds that are too close for a wheelbarrow, proving that design matters immensely and saves labor in the long run.
Permaculture designs typically use up to five zones radiating from the home, which is Zone 0. Elements requiring daily attention, like herbs and chickens, belong in Zone 1, while self-managing native plants and wildlife areas belong in Zone 5, which is largely left alone for observation.
Zone 2 is ideal for small fruit trees, ponds, and hardy perennials that need watering every other day. Zone 3 suits larger main crops and livestock like sheep, serving as a transitional area for larger agricultural production and water storage that requires less frequent visits.
A design should ensure every element serves at least three functions, known as the "Rule of Three." For instance, trees provide shade, prevent erosion, and produce food, while chickens provide eggs, manure, and pest control, effectively outsourcing tasks to nature.
Placing elements effectively reduces workload through the principle of relative location. Planting tomatoes near a compost pile allows the plant to feed on nutrients while shading the compost; the gardener can then harvest tomatoes while tending to the compost, reducing repetitive trips.
Designs should utilize gravity by placing water storage high on slopes to naturally irrigate lower areas. Ponds can be positioned to cross two zones, maximizing diversity and interaction, and birdbaths should be placed in line of sight for enjoyment.
Permaculture views problems as deficiencies or surpluses. A boggy spot is not a problem but a "duck deficiency" or an ideal location for a pond or bog garden with water chestnuts, turning a negative characteristic into a positive feature through creative design.
Mixing plant varieties confuses pests and prevents disease spread. Combining deep-rooted vegetables like carrots with shallow-rooted ones like radishes maximizes soil nutrient use and creates a more stable and resilient ecosystem that is less prone to collapse.
Even small spaces can use "stacking" layers: herbs at the bottom, shrubs in the middle, and trees at the top. This mimics a forest structure where each layer accesses necessary inputs, maximizing the use of vertical space in what is known as a food forest model.
Guild planting groups companion plants to benefit each other. It maximizes vertical space and nutrients, requiring designers to check if chosen plants will "get along" before finalizing the plan, ensuring successful co-existence and mutual support among species.
Chapter 4: Your Comprehensive Guide to Permaculture in 9 Steps
The "4 Ps" of permaculture are Place (your specific environment and needs), Patterns (observing nature's designs), Process (planning based on goals), and Principles (guidelines like diversity and feedback). These act as a summary to ensure ethics and functionality are incorporated into the design.
Regenerative Agriculture places soil at the heart of the system, aiming to regenerate fertility and organic content. It is a holistic approach that can reverse climate change through carbon drawdown and water retention, moving beyond simply doing no harm to actively improving the land.
Tilling releases carbon dioxide and disturbs soil microbes. By reducing tillage, farmers keep carbon in the ground and preserve the soil structure, which is critical for reversing global warming and maintaining healthy soil biology.
"Bare soil is bad soil" is a key mantra. Cover crops act as living mulch, preventing erosion, improving water availability, and helping with pest control when main crops are not growing, ensuring the land is never left vulnerable to the elements.
Extreme weather like floods and wildfires impacts food systems negatively. Permaculture techniques like shaping land to prevent runoff and building healthy soils can mitigate these climate crisis effects by restoring the health of topsoil and improving water retention.
The first practical step is creating a site map noting sun paths, wind, wildlife, and natural features. This prevents "analysis paralysis" by grounding decisions in data and helping to visualize the unique patterns of the space before any physical work begins.
Water systems are crucial and should be planned early as Step 4. They need to prevent runoff and spread water across the garden using techniques like rainwater harvesting or swales, ensuring this vital resource is captured and not wasted.
Planting begins with "anchor plants" of a guild. These primary plants need time to establish roots and gain height before faster-growing companions are introduced, setting the foundation for the guild's success and ensuring they aren't outcompeted early on.
The final step involves monitoring positive and negative feedback loops. Negative feedback suggests adjustments are needed to work better with nature, while patience remains the permaculturist's greatest tool for long-term success as the system matures.
The chapter warns against over-analyzing. By following the nine steps—from observation to maintenance—readers can move from theory to reality without getting stuck in decision-making, turning dreams into reality through a structured yet flexible process.
Chapter 5: Biomimicry - Observe and Record the Landscape
Quoting Lao Tzu, "Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished," the author urges readers to put down the trowel and observe. Patience prevents hasty mistakes, like planting for immediate gratification rather than long-term abundance, emphasizing that observation is an active part of the process.
Biomimicry involves using nature's patterns to design systems. Examples include Velcro (inspired by burrs), wind turbine blades (humpback whale fins), and glass designed like spider webs to crack without breaking, showing how nature has already solved many design problems we face.
Nature teaches us that everything needs sunlight, nothing is wasted (waste becomes food), and diversity is vital. These concepts align with permaculture principles to create functional, cooperative designs where form fits function and systems operate efficiently.
In nature, form fits function—sharks have sharp teeth to shred prey, and sea lions have flippers for swimming. Permaculture designs should similarly be functional and adapted to the specific environment to be efficient and effective, rather than just aesthetically pleasing.
Observation includes testing soil pH (ideal range 6.2–7) and understanding drainage. Recognizing whether soil is acidic or alkaline impacts plant choices and growth success, making this a critical data point that informs what will thrive in a specific location.
One must observe sun, shade, and wind patterns across different seasons, known as microclimates. Even weeds provide data on soil conditions, and observing wildlife requires sitting still for at least 15 minutes to let animals return and reveal their habits.
Surveying involves creating a base map of permanent features and using overlays for variables like sun, wind, and water. "PASTE" (Plants, Animals, Structures, Tools, Events) is an acronym used to identify main elements for the map, ensuring nothing is overlooked.
To track plant life, the DAFOR scale (Dominant, Abundant, Frequent, Occasional, Rare) helps monitor biodiversity and changes over seasons. This is crucial for understanding site evolution and plant dominance over time.
Observations should include "desire lines"—the paths humans and animals naturally take. Identifying these prevents fighting against natural movement patterns and helps in planning efficient access routes that will actually be used rather than ignored.
Observing land during extreme weather (heavy rain, snow) reveals water runoff patterns and frost pockets. This "extreme" observation is vital for placing elements like swales or frost-sensitive plants correctly based on real environmental behavior rather than assumptions.
Chapter 6: From Patterns to Details - Designing
Several frameworks exist to guide design, such as SADIMET (Survey, Analysis, Decisions, Implementation, Maintenance, Evaluation, Tweaking) and GOBRADIME, which emphasizes Goals, Observation, Boundaries, Resources, and Analysis. These provide structured approaches to the design process to ensure comprehensive planning.
Skipping the design phase causes long-term work, such as building beds too close for a wheelbarrow. A good design provides a framework to interact with nature and avoid regrets, saving time and effort in the future by anticipating logistical issues.
Gravity is a resource that must be planned for. Water tanks should be elevated to use gravity for pressure, and solar hot water panels should be placed below storage tanks to utilize the thermosyphon effect, reducing the need for mechanical pumps and energy.
Borders in nature are rarely straight. Curved edges increase the surface area for interaction, known as the "edge effect," promoting greater diversity and integration of elements, as edges are where the most biological interactions take place.
Designs must account for inputs and outputs, known as "process flows." This involves trading with the outside world (e.g., bringing in manure, selling vegetables) and ensuring easy access for these exchanges to save energy and streamline operations.
A complete design uses six maps: Base map, Sun map, Sector map (wild energies), Zone map (maintenance levels), Water map (flow and collection), and Master map (final plan). These overlays help visualize different aspects of the site and how they interact.
Designers should list every element (e.g., chickens, lemon tree) and map its inputs (needs) and outputs (yields). The goal is to connect these so one element's output satisfies another's input, creating a closed-loop system where waste is minimized.
Implementation follows a specific order: Water (swales, ponds), Access (paths), Structures (coops, sheds), Soil (prep and mulch), Planting, and finally Animals. This sequence ensures the infrastructure supports the living elements correctly and prevents damage to established areas.
For large areas, modular designs allow for repeating successful "units" or guilds. This simplifies scaling up the permaculture project without redesigning every square foot, making large projects more manageable and cohesive.
You don’t need to be a professional to design effectively. Daily tasks like plating food or arranging furniture involve design; garden design uses the same logic. Practicing with paper overlays helps correct mistakes before implementing them, building confidence in the process.
Chapter 7 (Part 1): Your Ecosystem's Lifeline - Water
Rainwater Harvesting (RWH) involves collecting water for reuse in irrigation, livestock, or home use. It reduces utility bills, prevents soil erosion, and alleviates strain on municipal water systems that require energy to purify water, making it a cornerstone of sustainable design.
Key rules for RWH include observing water patterns, starting from the highest point to use gravity, starting small, spreading and sinking water into the soil, and always planning for overflow to prevent damage during storms.
To estimate harvest potential, calculate the roof area (square footage) multiplied by annual rainfall (in feet) and then by 7.48 (gallons/cubic foot). Runoff coefficients vary: metal roofs shed ~95% of water, while grass only sheds 10-25%.
A swale is a trench with a downhill berm designed to slow, spread, and sink water. They should be built on contour, typically with a slope ratio no more than 1:3, and are ideal for planting trees on the berm to access the stored moisture.
For steeper slopes, check-log terraces use logs staked along contours to slow runoff and build soil. Over time, these create mini-ecosystems rich in fungi and earthworms, effectively terracing the hillside and reducing erosion.
French drains redirect problematic water accumulation. A trench (18-24 inches deep) lined with fabric and filled with gravel and a perforated pipe (holes facing down) moves water to desired areas like flower beds, turning a drainage problem into an irrigation solution.
A simple RWH system involves recycled plastic drums raised on blocks. A diverter connects the downspout to the drum, and overflow pipes can daisy-chain multiple drums together to increase storage capacity cheaply and effectively.
Rain gardens are shallow depressions with loose, amended soil and native plants designed to absorb runoff. They differ from ponds as they are not permanently wet; they soak up water within 24 hours, filtering pollutants before they reach the groundwater.
Infiltration basins are similar to rain gardens; they are sunken areas that collect stormwater and allow it to filter slowly into the soil, removing pollutants. They are cost-effective for both small and large areas and help recharge aquifers.
The text repeatedly stresses that you cannot predict exact rainfall, so every water system—from swales to drums—must have a robust overflow plan. This protects the landscape from erosion and damage during heavy storm events.
Chapter 7 (Part 2): Channeling Life through Your Garden
Clay Pot Irrigation (Ollas) is an ancient technique using unglazed, porous clay pots buried in the soil. Water seeps out solely based on soil tension, using up to 90% less water than other systems and reducing weed growth by keeping surface soil dry.
For efficiency, pots are placed in circles with plants around them. A standard pot provides water for an 18-inch radius. Tall plants can be 3-5 feet away, while vines can be up to 9 feet away, allowing for strategic planting patterns.
Drip irrigation uses pipes with emitters to deliver water directly to roots. It can be gravity-fed from rain barrels. Pressure-compensating drippers are best for slopes to ensure even watering, while non-pressure compensating ones work for flat land.
Drip lines should be flushed before capping to remove dirt. Emitters typically release 0.5 to 2 gallons per hour. It is recommended to use the same size emitter throughout the garden for consistency and to avoid burying pipes so that adjustments can be made easily.
Graywater is wastewater from showers, baths, sinks, and washing machines (excluding toilets/blackwater). It contains traces of food and dirt that can serve as nutrients for plants, turning potential pollutants into valuable plant food.
When using graywater, cleaning products must be biocompatible—free from sodium (salt), boron, and chlorine bleach—to avoid damaging the soil and plants. pH-neutral products are recommended to maintain soil balance.
Laundry-to-Landscape is a simple graywater system that doesn't require plumbing changes. It uses the washing machine's pump to push water into the garden. It is best to alternate graywater irrigation with rainwater to flush soil and prevent toxic accumulation.
Graywater should never be stored for more than 24 hours to prevent odors and bacteria growth. It should be applied under mulch to prevent pooling and human/pet contact, ensuring safety and hygiene in the garden.
Not all plants tolerate graywater. It should not touch edible parts of plants. Acid-loving plants may struggle if the graywater is alkaline from soaps, so pH levels must be monitored and suitable plants selected.
The ideal irrigation strategy combines rainwater harvesting and graywater use. This redundancy saves money, conserves potable water, and ensures plants survive drought conditions by maximizing all available water sources.
Chapter 8: A Love Affair with Soil
Healthy soil provides nutrients, regulates climate by absorbing carbon, and retains water to mitigate floods and droughts. Permaculture aims to mimic nature, where soil is never tilled and is continuously replenished by organic matter acting as a natural fertilizer.
A compost pile stacks organic waste to decompose effectively. The ideal ratio is 80% carbon (browns like leaves) to 20% nitrogen (greens like scraps). Proper aeration and moisture (like a wrung-out sponge) are crucial for successful decomposition.
A wooden three-bin system is efficient for continuous compost. One bin is for fresh scraps, the second for maturing compost, and the third for finished compost ready to use, ensuring a steady supply through a rotational system.
Vermicomposting uses worms to turn organic waste into nutrient-rich castings containing humic acid and beneficial microbes. A simple bin with holes for drainage and ventilation, bedded with shredded paper, creates a self-sustaining worm farm that accelerates composting.
Based on methods by Masanobu Fukuoka and Elaine Ingham, no-dig/no-till gardening involves layering materials on top of the soil (lasagna gardening) rather than digging. This preserves the soil food web and structure, allowing nature to integrate the organic matter.
To build a no-dig bed, layer cardboard (wet) over grass, followed by alfalfa/straw, manure/compost, and more straw. Repeat layers and plant directly into compost pockets in the straw, creating instant beds without digging.
Brewing compost in water with an air pump multiplies beneficial microbes (bacteria, fungi, protozoa), creating aerated compost tea. This aerobic tea acts as a liquid fertilizer and disease suppressant, far superior to anaerobic leachates which can be harmful.
The Hot Composting (Berkeley Method) is a fast, 18-day method requiring a 3x3x5 foot pile with a 25-30:1 C:N ratio. It must be turned every other day to maintain 131–149°F, killing weed seeds and pathogens while producing fine compost quickly.
Mulch mimics the forest floor, retaining moisture, suppressing weeds, and preventing erosion. "Green mulch" (chop and drop) and "leaf mulch" are excellent ways to feed the soil while protecting it, removing the issue of "bare soil" which degrades land.
Understanding soil biology is key; forests are fungal-dominated, while grasslands are bacterial. Permaculture uses succession principles and amendments like compost tea to steer soil biology toward the desired state for specific crops.
Chapter 9: Building Gardens in Your Ecosystem
Raised beds align with no-dig principles and improve accessibility. They can be built from recycled materials like wood or stone, typically 4 feet wide for reachability. They allow for controlled soil conditions and better drainage.
A keyhole-shaped bed maximizes space and edges, a core permaculture principle. It allows easy access to the center for harvesting or composting while maintaining a large growing area, making efficient use of the garden footprint.
Hügelkultur beds are mounds created by covering logs and branches with soil. The wood decomposes slowly, acting as a sponge for water and releasing nutrients over years. They are ideal for utilizing garden debris and creating long-term fertility.
To construct a Hügelkultur mound, layer compost, logs, straw, green mulch, and soil. The mound shape increases surface area for planting. Plants that prefer drier roots should go near the top, while thirstier ones go near the base.
Hedgerows serve multiple functions: windbreaks, privacy screens, and wildlife habitats. They consist of foundational plants (trees), fillers (shrubs), and herbs, increasing biodiversity and managing water flow across the landscape.
In hedgerow planting, tall plants are placed centrally or at the back, with smaller plants layered in front. This "stacking" ensures all plants get light. Nitrogen-fixers should be included to support soil health and reduce fertilizer needs.
An herb spiral (5-6 feet wide) maximizes vertical space and creates microclimates. The top is dry and sunny (rosemary), while the bottom is moist and shady (mint/parsley), allowing diverse herbs to grow in one footprint.
Using bricks or stones, the herb spiral rises to create a coil. The thermal mass of the material holds heat. It’s filled with soil and compost, offering various planting niches for herbs with different needs, utilizing vertical space efficiently.
Trellises utilize vertical space, perfect for small gardens. "Espalier" trains trees to grow flat against a wall or fence, absorbing heat and producing fruit in narrow spaces where standard trees wouldn't fit.
Simple supports can be made from star pickets and wire. Vines or trees are trained laterally along the wires. This structure supports heavy fruit loads and keeps plants off the ground, reducing disease and maximizing light exposure.
Chapter 10: Ecology and Wildlife Habitats
Understanding ecological hierarchies—individuals, populations, and communities—is essential. An ecosystem includes both living (biotic) and non-living (abiotic) elements. Adding wildlife requires ensuring the environment supports their specific needs (e.g., beavers need water/trees).
Different gardens serve different roles: kitchen gardens for daily herbs, orchards for fruit, pollinator gardens for insects, and wild areas (Zone 5) for native species. Each type adds a layer of biodiversity and function to the overall design.
To attract wildlife, one must provide food, water (ponds/birdbaths), and shelter (bushes/houses). Native animals act as natural pest controllers and pollinators when their habitat needs are met, turning the garden into a sanctuary.
Birds and bees are critical pollinators. Providing seed holders and diverse plants encourages them. In return, they control pests and improve yields. Monocultures should be avoided as they fail to support these beneficial creatures.
Different pollinators prefer different flowers. Bees like "landing strips" on flowers (e.g., pansies), butterflies like flat-topped clusters (e.g., asters), and hummingbirds like funnels. Diversity in flower shape and color is key to attracting a wide range of pollinators.
Insects like ladybugs (eat aphids), dragonflies (eat mosquitoes), and spiders are vital. "Insect hotels" with various materials (logs, sticks, pinecones) can be built to harbor diverse insect species, providing them with necessary shelter.
Small animals like ducks (slug control), rabbits (weed control/manure), and chickens (soil aeration) are working members of the ecosystem. Their "waste" is a valuable input for the garden, creating a functional relationship.
Goats and sheep act as grazers and clearers, while pigs can till soil and remove deep-rooted weeds. Their integration requires careful management to prevent overgrazing but offers high returns in manure and food.
Instead of chemicals, permaculture uses Integrated Pest Management (IPM): biological controls (predators), mechanical controls (traps), and cultural controls (changing the environment). The goal is balance, not total eradication, focusing on long-term prevention.
Plants like marigold, lavender, and peppermint naturally repel pests. Interplanting these "cultural controls" helps confuse pests and protect vulnerable crops without toxic sprays, using nature's own defenses.
Chapter 11 (Part 1): Preparing the Plant Guilds
A guild is a group of companion plants centered around an "anchor" (usually a tree) that support each other. It differs from a food forest in scale but follows the same polyculture principles, creating a localized ecosystem of support.
A successful guild includes seven components: Food (humans), Soil Food (mulch/nitrogen), Diggers (deep roots), Groundcover (moisture retention), Climbers (vertical space), Supporters (trellis/trees), and Protection (pest repellers). These components ensure the guild is self-sustaining.
Guilds utilize seven layers: Canopy, Low Tree, Shrub, Herbaceous, Groundcover, Rhizosphere (roots), and Climbers. This mimics a forest structure to maximize production in a 3D space, ensuring every layer is productive.
The central plant, often a fruit tree, is the "anchor." A ditch is dug around it for water retention and mulched. Companions are then planted around it to solve problems like pest control or nitrogen deficiency.
Plants like Comfrey (dynamic accumulator), Yarrow (attracts pollinators), and Rhubarb (natural insecticide leaves) are highlighted as beneficial perennials. They reduce maintenance and provide recurring benefits, enhancing the guild's resilience.
Trees come in Ultra-dwarf (3-6ft), Dwarf (6-8ft), Semi-dwarf (14-22ft), and Standard sizes. Choosing the right size for the space is crucial for management and yield, especially in smaller permaculture gardens.
Trees should be planted with care—roots level with soil, not compacted, and watered with compost tea. Stakes may be needed for support, but must not damage roots, ensuring the tree has the best start.
Pruning is essential for tree health and yield. It should be done to allow light and air circulation. "Pruning back" young trees encourages strong root establishment and better future fruit bearing, rather than immediate fruit production.
Nitrogen fixers like Clover, Alfalfa, and Beans absorb atmospheric nitrogen and release it into the soil, feeding neighboring plants. They are "heavy givers" essential for sustainable fertility and reducing the need for external fertilizers.
Cover crops are planted to protect bare soil ("green manure"). They prevent erosion and suppress weeds. They are cut down before seeding to return nutrients to the soil as mulch, maintaining soil health during off-seasons.
Chapter 11 (Part 2): The Many Benefits of Companion Planting
With over 390,000 plant species, listing all companion combinations is impossible. Permaculturists rely on databases and general principles to choose plants that "get along" and support the ecosystem, rather than memorizing every combination.
Apricot trees work well with basil, tansy, garlic, and sunflowers but dislike tomatoes and potatoes. Knowing these specific likes and dislikes prevents growth issues and ensures the guild thrives.
The Three Sisters Guild is a classic example involving Corn (support), Beans (nitrogen fixation), and Squash (groundcover). They work together perfectly: corn supports beans, beans feed corn, and squash protects soil moisture.
Crop rotation prevents nutrient depletion and pest buildup. Families of plants (e.g., nightshades) should not be planted in the same spot consecutively, forcing pests to move or die out.
A typical four-year rotation cycle involves moving a specific crop family to a new bed each year, returning to the original bed only in the fourth year. This breaks pest life cycles effectively and maintains soil health.
Crops are categorized as Heavy Feeders (tomatoes, corn), Heavy Givers (beans, peas), and Light Feeders (root crops). Rotation follows this sequence to balance soil nutrient withdrawal and replenishment.
Fast-growing crops like cabbage and peppers are Heavy Feeders requiring significant nutrients. They deplete soil quickly and should not be planted back-to-back in the same location to avoid exhausting the soil.
Legumes and nitrogen-fixers are Heavy Givers that replenish the soil. Planting them after heavy feeders restores fertility naturally without chemical fertilizers, preparing the soil for the next crop.
Light Feeders, such as root crops like onions and carrots, demand less from the soil. They are planted in the third phase of rotation to allow the soil to "rest" before the cycle restarts with heavy feeders.
Proper companion planting and rotation prevent the "disaster" of crop failure. Planning these details ensures that plants help rather than hinder each other, reducing long-term work and increasing success.
Chapter 12: Maintaining Your Permaculture Garden
Permaculture is often called "lazy gardening" because a good design automates care (e.g., self-seeding plants, pest-eating predators). However, "low maintenance" is a more accurate term than "lazy" as it still requires observation and tweaking.
Maintaining soil structure is key, so tilling is avoided. Instead of tilling, which destroys soil life, the gardener adds organic matter on top, letting worms and nature integrate it, acting like a forest floor.
Maintenance involves closing loops. Kitchen scraps, aquarium water, and shredded paper should all go back into the system as compost or mulch, reducing household waste and feeding the garden.
Lawns are high-maintenance monocultures. Converting them into raised beds or grazing space for animals reduces mowing labor and increases productivity and biodiversity, turning a burden into a benefit.
Fallen leaves are a free resource. Instead of bagging them as waste, they should be raked onto beds as mulch to protect soil in winter and decompose into nutrients, mimicking natural cycles.
Collecting every drop of water via swales and barrels reduces the need for active watering. Drip irrigation and clay pots automate the process further, saving time and water, ensuring the garden is resilient to drought.
Maintenance means doing less, not more, by copying nature. Since forests don't need weeding or watering, permaculture gardens aim for that state. If bare soil appears, it must be covered immediately to prevent erosion.
A calendar should track harvest windows to ensure food is picked at its peak. This organization prevents waste and helps plan for food preservation (freezing/canning), maximizing the yield.
Spending just 10-15 minutes a day observing the garden allows for small tweaks (feedback loop) rather than facing overwhelming tasks later. This "little and often" approach keeps the ecosystem balanced and manageable.
The chapter warns against adding too much too soon, as an unbalanced ecosystem increases maintenance. Starting with soil and water foundations reduces work in the long run, ensuring a stable system before expanding.
Chapter 13: Inspiring a Permaculture Community
The "Butterfly Effect" suggests that small individual actions can lead to significant outcomes. Starting permaculture at home can inspire neighbors, eventually creating a community-wide movement, proving that small changes matter.
Nature produces no waste, and humans must adopt this mindset. The "7 Rs" framework helps reduce consumption and waste in daily life, extending permaculture ethics beyond the garden.
The "7 Rs" are Reduce (consumption), Repair (fix before tossing), Repurpose (e.g., fridge as garden bed), Reuse (secondhand goods), Rot (compost), Recycle (last resort), and Rethink (borrow/rent instead of buy). This framework guides a sustainable lifestyle.
The author notes the massive waste from constantly upgrading phones as an example. Rethinking necessity and resisting consumerism are vital parts of the permaculture lifestyle, challenging the "need" for the latest device.
Beginners possess "enthusiasm," a powerful tool for inspiring others. Sharing maps, plans, and excitement can motivate extroverted neighbors to organize community efforts, spreading the movement.
Community ideas like petitioning for communal permaculture spaces on bare city land or starting community fridges help spread the practice. These actions bring "Fair Share" ethics to the public sphere.
Communities can set up groups to swap seeds and cuttings instead of buying new ones. Sharing knowledge prevents others from making the same mistakes and accelerates collective learning.
Quality tools are expensive, so neighbors can share heavy equipment like wheelbarrows, saving money and resources. This strengthens community bonds and reduces individual consumption.
Neighbors can look after each other's gardens during holidays, a concept of "Permaculture Babysitting." This ensures care for the ecosystem and provides a learning opportunity for the "sitter" to observe a different system.
"Permie Parties" are social gatherings where neighbors bring dishes made from their crops to celebrate success. These parties foster connection, share inspiration, and normalize the permaculture lifestyle through shared food and stories.
Afterword
Permaculture is described as "nothing new"; it is a return to nature's way of taking care of itself. After humans disrupted natural balances, permaculture offers a philosophy to repair the harm and restore equilibrium.
The success of any design always reverts to the twelve principles: Observe, Catch Energy, Obtain Yield, Self-Regulate, Use Renewable Resources, Produce No Waste, Design from Patterns, Integrate, Slow Solutions, Value Diversity, Use Edges, and Respond to Change.
Combining the principles with the ethics of Care for Earth, Care for People, Fair Share, and Animal Care creates the foundation for a self-sustaining garden that mimics nature.
A final reminder of the "stacking functions" rule is given: if an element doesn't serve at least three functions, it should be rethought. This efficiency is central to a successful, low-maintenance design.
The mantra "feed the soil" is reiterated. Without feeding the garden (with compost/mulch), the garden cannot feed you. Chemical fertilizers are unnecessary when household waste is utilized.
Finding and closing loops—like using kitchen scraps for soil or collecting rainwater—ensures no resource is wasted. This is the practical application of the "Produce No Waste" principle in the home.
"Bare soil is bad soil," so diverse planting (polyculture) in raised beds, guilds, or spirals is the best way to prevent erosion, feed the soil, and manage pests, ensuring long-term health.
The author apologizes for being a "bore" but emphasizes patience again. Planning and observation are active steps toward success, even if hands aren't in the dirt yet, preventing costly mistakes.
A practical final warning is to always check local permits and utility lines before digging. Enthusiasm shouldn't lead to a disaster with city pipes or regulations, which is often overlooked.
The author invites readers to join the "Think Like an Ecosystem" Facebook group to share stories. She views nature as her best teacher but values the continuous learning that comes from a supportive community.
